Vingt-8, Additional Dial, White Gold

This Vingt-8* demonstrates the spectrum of watchmaker Kari Voutilainen's aesthetics in the two dials provided – a rarer black dial and a more classically framed white dial. Both demonstrate the elegant approach that is characteristic of Voutilainen's work, and is powered by the in-house created calibre 28. The watch was made entirely at the Voutilainen workshop in Môtiers, near Geneva.

Kari Voutilainen's Vingt-8 series was first introduced in 2011, and the watch has gone on to become the backbone of the Finnish watchmaker’s catalogue of offerings. The sheer variety and diversity in terms of colour and case metal of the Vingt-8 series is underpinned by Voutilainen's sturdy mechanics and distinctive combination of finishing styles.

Delivered in 2011, this example left the workshop in the first year the series was introduced, and unusually, is accompanied by two dials. The one currently on the watch has a casual, sporty feel to it, without compromising on the elegance expected from a Voutilainen watch. The rare, black dial, engine-turned by hand with a sunburst pattern, gives it a mixture of grey tones and a fantastic depth. Against this dark background, applied orange hour markers and Arabic numerals liven up the face. A white minute track and two red dots at 6 and 12 add further legibility. The sub-second dial is placed at 6 o'clock, with an orange hand and a white seconds track. Fantastic Breguet hands finish off the face - in the trademark Voutilainen fashion, the loops are made of blue steel while the hands match the hour markers. Arguably this is more of a business casual look with a hint of eccentricity - balanced out neatly by the elegant and understated black face.

The second dial has a more classical, timeless appearance, and between the two faces, you get an almost entirely different watch depending on which you are wearing. The alternate dial is silver and engine-turned with three different guilloché patterns. The applied Roman numerals further add to the classical styling, making it a timeless and sophisticated piece to wear on the wrist. The additional dial is accompanied by a second set of hands, which are white gold with blued loops, corresponding traditional dial.

The watch is housed in a classically sized 39 mm 18-carat white gold case, featuring the atelier’s signature tear-drop lugs, testifying to Voutilainen's uncompromising attention to detail and craftsmanship. It is accompanied by a matching 18-carat white gold tang buckle on a hand-sewn black alligator strap.

This Voutilainen is just as impressive inside the case; the sapphire crystal on the reverse allows one to see inside the movement, revealing the rich palette of hues and forms. The in-house Cal. 28 is made from German silver and titanium. Through the combination of a a free-sprung balance with Breguet overcoil and a Grossmann interior curve, and the signature direct impulse escapement with two large (13.6mm) escapement wheels, a high degree of engineering ingenuity is accomplished. One of the hallmarks of Voutilainen as a manufacture is their superlative hand-finishing; with expert anglage and a mixture of polished, brushed and frosted surfaces, the aesthetics of the movement is as impressive as the mechanics. The watch has a 50-hour power reserve.

Closer look

Condition

This Voutilainen Vingt-8 is in good overall condition. The white gold case displays superficial marks throughout, with a small ding on the top of the right lug at 5 o'clock and a few light scuffs on the bezel. The case has never been polished. The dial and hands fitted to the watch are free of any signs of imperfections, along with the early Vingt-8 movement, where the German silver displays a warm tone. The second set of dials and hands are secured within a brass dial container and are similarly well preserved. The watch does not come with the original box and papers.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.