Vingt-8 | Unique Piece | Stainless Steel

This Vingt-8 is a unique piece that combines several surprising elements with Voutilainen’s signature style – from the recessed sector and luminous numerals to the jet black onyx that is the focal point of the piece. This watch speaks very much to Voutilainen’s willingness to experiment and take on clients’ requests, and was also an inspiration for the subsequent 28 Sport.

Throughout his life, Kari Voutilainen has followed the path which we’ve come to expect from noteworthy independent watchmakers - following his graduation from watchmaking school, he joined Parmigiani, one of the foremost restoration workshops in Switzerland, then took on a teaching role at WOSTEP in 2002, before establishing himself as an independent watchmaker.

The Vingt-8 has arguably become the backbone of Voutilainen’s offering. With the first models leaving the workshop in 2011, the Calibre 28 was developed entirely in - house and is regulated by the double wheel escapement that has become a trademark of the Finnish watchmaker. As Kari has stated publicly, “the design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition.”

Voutilainen is also known for his ability to take on custom work requested by clients, and this particular Vingt-8 is an excellent example of that, as it is entirely unique, designed to a client’s request. The centre of the dial and the seconds subsidiary dial is rendered in a deep, dark onyx, which provides a stark contrast to the brushed metal surrounding it.

The dial is constructed in such a way to feature a recessed sector, with luminous numerals that appear to “shine through” the darker metal above it. Further to this, the movement is particularly unusual thanks to the various blued parts that can be seen through the sapphire caseback – the client apparently requested for as many parts to be heat-blued as possible, resulting in the treatment being applied to most of the steel parts, including the wheels. Additionally, the case is made in stainless steel, a metal that is rarely seen in Voutilainen’s work

Intriguingly, this specific piece also seems to have been the progenitor of the 28 Sport series, as they bear striking similarities, especially with regards to the onyx centre within the dial found on certain pieces, as well as superluminova on the index markers.

The watch is powered by the Calibre 28. Through the combination of a free-sprung balance with Breguet over - coil and a Grossmann interior curve, and the signature direct impulse escapement with two large (13.6mm) escapement wheels, a high degree of engineering ingenuity is accomplished. One of the hallmarks of Voutilainen as a manufacture is their superlative hand - finishing; with expert anglage and a mixture of complimentary surfaces

Closer look

This Voutilainen Vingt-8 is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.