43031 | Perpetual Calendar | Yellow Gold

First launched in 1983, the Vacheron Constantin reference 43031 was one of the pieces that helped renew the interest in complicated watchmaking, following the decimation caused by the Quartz Crisis. This first series example features a more rarely seen ivory tone dial, lending it a charming vintage aesthetic.

One of the few ultra-thin, automatic perpetual calendars put forth by the Holy Trinity, this Vacheron Constantin reference 43031 possesses a significant history and is an excellent example of the combination of modern and traditional elements that characterises the neo-vintage period.

Over the years, the reference 43031 has been produced in a variety of dial, metal, and bracelet configurations, and these pieces are a testament to the brand’s successful weathering of the Quartz Crisis, helping revive public interest in complicated watchmaking. After a successful run, the reference was discontinued in 2002, to make way for the manufacturer’s contemporary pieces.

While most examples of the reference 43031 feature a white opaline dial, this particular piece have a delicate champagne colour that provides a neo-vintage touch when combined with the yellow-gold case. Of course, collectors of vintage pieces will be familiar with the unique appeal of a “tone on tone” watch, where the dial and case subtly complement one another, a feature that certainly makes this piece stand out. These champagne-toned dials are also particularly rare within the reference 43031, as is the case with other perpetual calendars from the period, such as those by Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.

Within the watch, Vacheron Constantin used the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920, which was the thinnest automatic movement in the world when it came out in 1967. They then reworked a perpetual calendar module from Dubois-Depraz, a famed module manufacturer who has supplied Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, among others. The end result was the Caliber 1120 QP, which still remains in production to this day, albeit in an updated form.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Vacheron Constantin 43031 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Vacheron Constantin 43031 is in very good condition overall. The case and lugs show light superficial marks, consistent with relative wear over time. The stepped bezel, reverse of the lugs, and caseback show signs of oxidation. The watch arrived with a Vacheron Constantin caseback sticker, carefully peeled and inspected to reveal the case numbers and hallmarks which remain crisp and well defined. The dial has aged to a warm ivory hue, free of any imperfections with the painted perpetual hands showing natural signs of age.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.