222 | Ref 46004 | Yellow Gold and Steel

A rarely seen example of a two-tone, square cased 222, this reference 46004 is an angular piece that accurately encompasses the aesthetics of the 1980s. Part of the illustrious 222 collection, it retains all the typical key design features of the series, housed within an unconventional square case.

When one thinks of the shape of the 222, a square case is not necessarily the first thing that comes to mind. While the original design of the 222 departed almost entirely from the standard notion of a luxury dress watch, the square case of this reference 46004 makes for an even more curious example. To our understanding, this was the only square version of the 222 produced, as Vacheron Constantin has not reproduced the 222 with this case shape since.

The watch has all the typical features associated with the 222 series, such as the scalloped bezel ring circling the case, small Maltese cross just below the five o’clock mark, and interlocking bracelet construction. The large “222” symbol can also be seen as an engraving on the caseback.

The 222 reference 46004 was also available in stainless steel with a brushed grey dial, and yellow gold with a matching dial, in addition to this two-tone yellow-gold and steel version. In this case, the two-tone case works very well in helping emphasise the angles and surfaces of the watch, further highlighting the square lines of the case. Despite its angular nature, the watch is surprisingly slim, housing an automatic movement found within a typical 222 piece. This fact indicates that the square case was not simply a novelty, but there was a certain level of pride that the brand took in this piece.

As is perhaps most commonly found within unusual examples of this period, the square case shows a willingness for larger brands to experiment with shapes and metals. Additionally, while the idea of “timeless design” is very often used when it comes to watches, it makes it all the more interesting that this piece feels rooted in the 1980s, thoroughly part of the period in which it was made.

This Vacheron Constantin 222 is in good condition overall. Superficial marks are found throughout the bezel, mid case and bracelet, consistent with relative wear. The engravings on the case back are crisp and well defined, bracelet showing minimal stretch. The lumed hands and markers have aged to an even warm hue.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.