222 | Ref. 46003 | Steel

This Vacheron Constantin 222 bears testament to one of the most disruptive periods of watchmaking, in the wake of the Quartz Crisis. Alongside the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, it represents the efforts of the so-called "Holy Trinity" of watchmaking to remain relevant in this new context, with their integrated bracelet sports watches. This mid-size ref. 46003 "222" is accompanied by an impressive array of paperwork, reminding us of what it must have felt like to purchase a piece like this back in 1985.

Standing out from the crowd

The design of this Vacheron Constantin 222 is particularly striking. When it was introduced, it departed almost entirely from the standard notion of a luxury dress watch, which was typically classic in appearance and made from precious metals. Before the disruptive pieces of the ‘70s, stainless steel had largely been considered as a functional, utilitarian material, though it was now transformed into a desirable medium for certain manufactures to display their craft.

With its tonneau shape, and an understated scalloped bezel ring circling the case, the design of the reference 46003 is particularly distinctive. A subtle contrast between brushed and polished surfaces can be found throughout, accentuating the high level of finishing involved. It also features a small Maltese cross, just below the five o’clock mark on the top of the case itself, in reference to Vacheron Constantin’s signature symbol.

 An early photoshoot with the "Jumbo" version of the 222

The reference 46003 measures 34mm in diameter and is just over 7mm thick. Structurally speaking, the case is a monocoque, or unibody, setting it apart from other similar sports watches in the period with its almost completely flat caseback and slender profile. Because of its unique case and bracelet design, it wears larger than its dimensions would otherwise suggest, wrapping itself around the wrist. The bracelets and clasps were made by the famed bracelet maker Gay Frères, who produced the first Oyster bracelets for Rolex, as well as integrated bracelets for the original Nautilus and Royal Oak.

The matte black dial evocatively contrasts with the stainless steel case. It features applied, tritium-filled hour markers, which are complemented by polished baton-hands with luminous inserts, and a date aperture at 3 o’clock with the original date-disc. The lume has developed a warm patina throughout, reinforcing the neo-vintage appeal of this particular example.

The Movement

Unlike the “Jumbo” version of the Vacheron 222, which is powered by the ultra-slim Calibre 1121, this “mid-size” version is powered by the Calibre 1124, based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 889. It features 33 working jewels, has been adjusted to five positions, and also integrates an oscillating weight mounted on an unlubricated ceramic ball bearing, with one segment of the weight made out of 21-carat gold.

The Set

This Vacheron Constantin 222 ref. 46003 comes with its outer box, inner box, small Vacheron Constantin notepad, pen, two sets of sealed Vacheron Constantin playing cards, paper envelope and Certificate of Origin and Warranty. The paperwork confirms the watch, case and movement number, as well as the fact that it was sold in April 1985, in the Netherlands.

Closer look