222 | Ref. 46003 | Steel and Gold

This Vacheron Constantin 222 bears testament to one of the most disruptive periods of watchmaking, in the wake of the Quartz Crisis. Alongside the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, it represents the efforts of the so-called "Holy Trinity" of watchmaking to remain relevant in this new context, with their integrated bracelet sports watches. This mid-size ref. 46003 "222" is especially distinctive thanks to its gold-and-steel case, combining both luxury and sports aesthetics.

The 222

In 1977, Vacheron Constantin introduced the reference 222, as a way to mark the brand’s 222nd anniversary. The design – with its integrated bracelet and notched bezel – firmly diverged from the brand’s existing focus on dress watches, and marked a new era of luxury stainless steel sports watches.

Despite being the last to be introduced in the integrated steel sports watch movement, the 222 offered a true competitor to the two other members of the so-called “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking, namely the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Conceived by renowned watch designer Jörg Hysek, with numerous design cues from Gerald Genta, the 222 has since become one of the manufacture's most recognisable watches, due to its distinctive features and its contribution as a pioneer for high-end luxury sports watches. 

Vacheron Constantin produced the 222 in a number of the sizes, most notably the "Jumbo" reference 44018 and the mid-size version 46003. The latter was meant to bring the 222 to a wider audience, who at the time favoured more modestly sized wristwatches - much like the ref. 14790 from Audemars Piguet and the ref. 3800 from Patek Philippe. It is understood that the mid-size version of the 222 was produced in quite small numbers, likely less than 300 pieces across all metals.

Standing out from the crowd

The design of the Vacheron Constantin 222 is particularly striking. When it was introduced, it departed almost entirely from the standard notion of a luxury dress watch, which was typically classic in appearance. Despite the precious metal case seen on this example, the watch leaves us with a sense of understated luxury, thanks to its slim design, proportionate size, and robust performance.

This Ref. 46003 is especially distinctive thanks to its two-tone case, combining yellow gold and steel, luxury with utilitarian practicality. With its tonneau shape, and a gold scalloped bezel ring circling the steel case, the design plays the contrasting metals against each other to create a striking piece. The dial itself is a deep grey, with yellow gold applied index markers and a frame for the date aperture providing increased legibility.

Each hour-marker is tritium-filled, and is complemented by polished baton-hands with luminous inserts, alongside a date aperture at 3 o’clock with the original date-disc. The tritium across all hour markers and both hands has developed a rich, even patina, which compliments the warmth of the gold case accents.

 An early photoshoot with the "Jumbo" version of the 222

Additionally, a subtle contrast between brushed and polished surfaces can be found throughout, accentuating the high level of finishing involved. It also features a small Maltese cross, just below the five o’clock mark on the top of the case itself, in reference to Vacheron Constantin’s signature symbol.

This Ref. 46003 measures 34mm in diameter and is just over 7mm thick. Structurally speaking, the case is a monocoque, or unibody, setting it apart from other similar sports watches in the period with its almost completely flat caseback and slender profile. Because of its unique case and bracelet design, it wears larger than its dimensions would otherwise suggest, wrapping itself around the wrist. The bracelets and clasps were made by the famed bracelet maker Gay Frères, who produced the first Oyster bracelets for Rolex, as well as integrated bracelets for the original Nautilus and Royal Oak.

The Movement

This Ref. 46003 is powered by the ultra-slim calibre 1124, a movement based on the JLC 899 that also has a date and a centre-seconds. It features 33 working jewels, has been adjusted to five positions, and integrates an oscillating weight mounted on an unlubricated ceramic ball bearing, with one segment of the weight made out of 21-carat gold.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this "222" ref. 46003 will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.

Closer look