222 | Ref. 46003 | Yellow Gold

This Vacheron Constantin 222 bears testament to one of the most disruptive periods of watchmaking, in the wake of the Quartz Crisis. Alongside the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, it represents the efforts of the so-called "Holy Trinity" of watchmaking to remain relevant in this new context, with their integrated bracelet sports watches. This mid-size ref. 46003 "222" in yellow gold is preserved in a remarkable condition.

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The design of the Vacheron Constantin 222 is particularly striking. When it was introduced, it departed almost entirely from the standard notion of a luxury dress watch, which was typically classic in appearance. Despite the precious metal case seen on this example, the watch leaves us with a sense of understated luxury, thanks the slim design, proportionate size, and robust performance.

With its tonneau shape, and a scalloped bezel ring circling the case, the design of the reference 46003 is particularly distinctive. A subtle contrast between brushed and polished surfaces can be found throughout, accentuating the high level of finishing involved. It also features a small Maltese cross, just below the five o’clock mark on the top of the case itself, in reference to Vacheron Constantin’s signature symbol.

The reference 46003 measures 34mm in diameter and is just over 7mm thick. Structurally speaking, the case is a monocoque, or unibody, setting it apart from other similar sports watches in the period with its almost completely flat caseback and slender profile. Because of its unique case and bracelet design, it wears larger than its dimensions would otherwise suggest, wrapping itself around the wrist. The bracelets and clasps were made by the famed bracelet maker Gay Frères, who produced the first Oyster bracelets for Rolex, as well as integrated bracelets for the original Nautilus and Royal Oak.

The tone-on-tone dial nicely blends in with the yellow gold case, while offering some contrast through the finishing. It features applied, tritium-filled hour markers, which are complemented by polished baton-hands with luminous inserts, and a date aperture at 3 o’clock with the original date-disc. The combination of the subtle differences in the gold tones on the watch reinforces the neo-vintage appeal of this particular example.

Unlike the “Jumbo” version of the Vacheron 222, which is powered by the ultra-slim Calibre 1121, this “mid-size” version is powered by the Calibre 1124, based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 889. It features 33 working jewels, has been adjusted to five positions, and also integrates an oscillating weight mounted on an unlubricated ceramic ball bearing, with one segment of the weight made out of 21-carat gold.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Vacheron Constantin 222 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

Condition

This Vacheron Constantin ref. 46003 “222” is preserved in excellent condition, for a watch of its age and the material. The case and bracelet are nicely finished, with bevelled and polished surfaces. The overall condition is consistent with minimal wear over time, remarkable for a watch of its age and the precious material. Both the case and bracelet are original to the watch, with the case number clearly legible (565XXX). The dial showing virtually any imperfections, the lumed hands and hour markers ageing to an even creamy hue.

Warranty

The 1124 calibre movement of this 222 comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.