Tourbillon C187 | Yellow Gold

Often considered a rite of passage for independent watchmakers looking to prove themselves, this tourbillon certainly showcases Roth's horological ability and aesthetic refinement. Trained at Audemars Piguet and having played a significant role the resuscitation of Breguet, Roth offered a creative take on traditional, Breguet-inspired styling, of which this piece is an enduring testament.

Born into a family with deep horological roots, Daniel Roth followed the path of his grandfather and great-grandfather in becoming a watchmaker. After completing his apprenticeship in Nice, he then moved to the Vallée de Joux, working for Audemars Piguet. He worked there for seven years, before he was discovered by the Chaumet brothers, the then-owners of Breguet. Roth joined their team to help resuscitate the manufacture, helping cement their style, finishing, and complications – which can still be seen today – before starting his own brand in 1989.

With his own work, it is clear that Roth was trying to achieve a continuation of the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet, as seen in the styling of his pieces and his emphasis on hand-finishing. Combining classic complications with innovative dial layouts, Roth managed to create an aesthetic that was distinctly his own.

This yellow-gold tourbillon features many of Roth’s signature design cues, such as the sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dial and the double ellipse case. Developed while Roth was still working with Breguet, the tourbillon was a natural debut for independent watchmakers, as the complication has long been a rite of passage for those looking to prove themselves.

As Roth worked very closely with Lemania during his time at Breguet, it comes as no surprise that that movement that powers this watch is based off the Lemania 387 ébauche. It’s understood that the design for the Lemania 387 calibre came from Roth, with Nouvelle Lemania offering the skills and tools to create a working prototype and then serially produce the movement. Therefore, whilst Roth’s tourbillon was technically based on a Lemania ébauche, it is understood that he was actively involved in its design.

Collectors familiar with Roth’s work will note that this particular piece has a closed caseback, rather than an open caseback with a date and power reserve – this suggests that it was made slightly later than the original pieces, providing a more pared-back version of the complication.

A Collected Man will be donating an amount equivalent to the total selling price of the highest-performing watch to the Red Cross Ukraine Crisis Appeal.

Closer look

This Daniel Roth Tourbillon is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks and imperfections consistent with moderate wear over time. The case itself is very nicely preserved, retaining its original shape and edges. The hallmarks on the reverse side of the lugs are also crisply defined, the manufacture’s initials also still visible. Very small dings are visible throughout the bezel portion, though these remain mostly on the surface. There are also some scratches on the polished caseback, particularly on the left side nearest the crown, which are mostly superficial in nature. All aspects of the dial-side appear unblemished, beneath the shaped sapphire crystal.

The watch includes the original Daniel Roth buckle, which appears consistent with the condition of the watch. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.