Tourbillon | 3350 | Yellow Gold

First introduced in 1988, the reference 3350 is the first tourbillon wristwatch ever produced under the historic Breguet name. The movement was developed by Daniel Roth, whilst he was Master Watchmaker at Breguet, working closely with the Lemania movement manufacturer. Years later, Roth would use the same ébauche in the tourbillons he produced under his own name, as an independent watchmaker.

A Historic Name

Born in Neuchâtel, Abraham-Louis Breguet would go on to pioneer significant technical and aesthetic innovations during his career, with his influence carrying through to the present day. The watchmaker spearheaded several inventions, including the over-coil hairspring and the tourbillon, which he first invented in 1795 and patented in 1801. It is no coincidence that he remains the most cited reference point for accomplished watchmakers centuries later, from George Daniels to François-Paul Journe.

The brand bearing his name enjoyed success during the 18th and 19th century, producing pieces for distinguished European figures, from King Louis XVI to Queen Marie Antoinette. As its moved into the 20th century, the brand dramatically changed its focus, principally producing pilot’s chronographs for the military. Though they occasionally made more classical timepieces - such as one of only three retrograde perpetual calendars from the 20th century - their focus was decidedly more utilitarian than Abraham-Louis Breguet had initially intended.

The Rebirth of Breguet

In 1970, Jacques and Pierre Chaumet took over Breguet, in the hopes of reinvigorating the brand and renewing the connection between the Breguet name and high-end watchmaking. Shortly thereafter, the brothers closed the French factory and moved production to the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, the epicentre of Swiss watchmaking.

In order to restore the brand to its former glory, Jacques and Pierre would need a Master Watchmaker to help. They approached Daniel Roth, who’d demonstrated his talent over seven years working at Audemars Piguet, which he’d joined as the only watchmaker who didn’t come from Le Brassus, the brand’s historic home. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguet’s archives and techniques.

François Bodet, the director of the brand, and Roth worked together to define the Breguet aesthetic in wristwatch form, as well as introduce a range of new models and complications to their collection. The engine-turned dials, coin case and distinctive Breguet hands have become signature features of these pieces. From perpetual calendars to tourbillons, they embraced the high-end complicated watchmaking first personified by Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Reviving The Tourbillon

In 1987, Bodet and Roth began studying the Breguet tourbillon, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet two centuries prior. They spent three years on research and development, working closely with Lemania, the historic movement manufacturer. The reference 3350, the culmination of this work, was released in 1990, with a one-minute tourbillon fully exposed through an aperture in the dial. When Daniel Roth established his own brand, shortly after, he used the same base movement to power his own tourbillons, displaying the affection he held for the ébauche he helped develop.

This Breguet reference 3350 is cased in yellow gold, a metal that evokes a truly classic, almost baroque feeling, especially with the ornate filigree-type decoration found on the reverse of the watch, in addition to the base plate which can be seen below the tourbillon. The dial itself is made from solid silver, with a guilloché pattern repeated throughout. The earliest versions of the reference 3350, of which this is one, have a subtle champagne tone to the dial and lack any additional text on the guilloché, both of which change later in the production lifecycle of the model.

A silvered chapter ring with stamped Roman numerals marks the hours, and there are two secret Breguet signatures which can be found between 11 and 12 o’clock, as well as 12 and 1 o’clock. The coin-edges that were instated by Daniel Roth as a design principle can also be seen around this piece. The skeletonised tourbillon cage is placed at the 6 o’clock marker, with the design of the complication naturally drawing the eye to it, thanks to its intricacy and hand-engraved details. The tourbillon can also be seen from the back of the movement. The tourbillon also features a blued subsidiary second hand, with three arms rotating across a 20-second indicator.

The Movement

This Breguet Tourbillon reference 3350 is powered by the manual-winding calibre 558. The movement was initially produced by Lemania, working closely with Bodet and Roth from Breguet. Nouvelle Lemania was eventually acquired by Breguet in 1992, which in turn was absorbed into the Swatch Group in 1999.

This calibre 558 is fitted with 21 jewels, beats at a frequency of 18,000 vph, and has a power reserve of 50 hours. The movement allows for a running seconds on the tourbillon complication and features a balance spring with a compensating Breguet overcoil.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Breguet Tourbillon 3350 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

The Breguet Tourbillon ref. 3350 is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.