World Time Cloisonné | Ref. 5131/1P | Platinum

An impressive presence on the wrist thanks to its substantial bracelet, this Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné reference 5131P* is a bold interpretation of the classic complication. Its heft is juxtaposed against the delicate cloisonné enamel rendering of the Northern Hemisphere and underpinned by a Cottier-inspired world-time mechanism.

In 1959, Patek Philippe obtained a patent for Louis Cottier's world time complication, with the manufacture since having become synonymous with the complication. In 1953, they released the reference 2523, which has since come to be cemented as one of the manufacturer’s most iconic models. Today, the 5131P carries this legacy forward, with the watch cased entirely in platinum and fitted with a platinum bracelet.
 
This reference 5131P is largely similar to its gold counterparts, distinguished by the cloisonne enamel found at the heart of the dial. Twenty-four cities are displayed on the brushed outer section of the dial, in an italicised font, with the signatures "Patek Philippe" and "Genève" engraved on the bezel. This is separate from the 24-hour ring that splits the day cleanly into day and night times. Meanwhile, the oversized Observatoire-style hands are reminiscent of Patek Philippe's great world-time watches from the past, also providing enhanced legibility against the colourful centre portion of the dial.
 
Requiring meticulous attention to detail to craft using cloisonné enamel, this World Time is limited by Patek Philippe’s available supply of these specialist dials - with only a small number produced each year. In this example, the enamel depicts a view of the globe from the Northern Hemisphere in remarkable detail, with the mountainous areas and physical geography more accurately rendered compared to the white and yellow gold editions. These are finely outlined in yellow gold, and four dots are placed at each quarter.
 
At 39.5mm in diameter, the case of the 5131P is both contemporary and classic in its design. Its rounded shape, from its curved crown guards to its elongated lugs, lend fluidity and elegance to the watch. Polished throughout, the platinum case complements the ornate design of the dial. The pusher on the left side of the case is used to advance the hour hand forward in one-hour increments to set the local time when one is travelling. A truly functional complication, which may still prove useful today. Notably, this example is placed on a brick-style bracelet that gives the World Time a pleasant heft, and as with all platinum examples from Patek Philippe, there is a small diamond gem placed at the very base of the case.
 
The watch is powered by the ultra-thin 240 HU ("Heure Universelle"), this self-winding movement features an elegant 22K gold micro-rotor, allowing a height below 3.9mm; despite the world-time mechanism, placed dial-side on top of the movement. The 240 HU features a Spiromax balance spring, made of silicon-based Silinvar, working in conjunction with a Gyromax balance-wheel. The movement is beautifully finished, with finely-applied Geneva stripes, perlage, and anglage.
 
All the requisite box and papers for this Patek Philippe World Time are present, including its Certificate of Origin, a Certificate of Authenticity. The watch comes with its original platinum bracelet, in addition to a custom Camille Fournet alligator strap and platinum deployant clasp, allowing the watch to be worn both ways.

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe 5131/1P is in excellent overall condition. The, case lugs, and bracelet show light signs of wear with light superficial marks which are more noticeable on the lower portion of the bracelet/buckle. All marks are extremely light and only on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. The engravings and hallmarks on the case, bracelet, and buckle are crisp and well defined.

The watch comes with both the original factory platinum bracelet, along with a platinum deployant clasp and a custom Camille Fournet strap purchased separately, allowing for the watch to be worn both ways.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.