Aquanaut 5164A-001 | Travel Time | Steel

The Aquanaut was released in 1997, as the first Patek Philippe to be fitted with a rubber strap. Initially limited to just 1,000 pieces (as the ref. 5060A and 5060J), the model was introduced shortly after the brand’s first highly-successful sports watch, the Nautilus, celebrated its 20th anniversary. This example, the 5164A, has date, GMT and day-night functions, which seamlessly integrate into the original design.

The reference 5164A

When it was first released, the Aquanaut was a parodoxical watch; not only was it made out steel, but its utilitarian, rubber strap seemed far-flung from Patek Philippe's classical style. Its checkerboard dial, and its interplay with the texture of the strap, was also unlike anything the manufacture had produced before, building on the contrarian foundation established by the Nautilus.

This example, the ref. 5164A-001, was launched in 2011, as the first Aquanaut to house a complication. It features a secondary time zone function, displayed through the hollow hour hand, and in the form of two apertures at three and nine o’clock. These are used to differentiate the night and day for both the home and the local time, respecitively. On top of this, the date function in the form of a sub-dial is placed at six o’clock, which is linked to the home time.

The watch has a number of additional, highly utilitarian functions. When not travelling, the second time zone hand sits underneath the main hour hand - a clever feature, making the design aesthetically clean and highly legible. It also utilises highly-practical pushers on the left side of the case, used to set the GMT hour hand independently from the main hand.

The Design

The Aquanaut re-interprets a number of signature design elements from the Nautilus - most notably, the octagonal rounded bezel. It displays a high level of finishing, with brushed surfaces on the case front, and polished, bevelled edges. The steel, three-piece case provides water resistance up to 120m, further featuring a screw-down crown.

The black checkerboard dial has luminous-filled index markers and is embossed with silver applied numerals, and matches the texture on the rubber strap. The luminous material is superluminova, following the end of Patek Philippe using tritium on their dials. The centre portion of the date function at six o’clock is embossed with a globe pattern, giving further indication the 5164A was conceived with travel in mind.

The Movement

The movement inside the Aquanaut Travel Time is the self-winding calibre 324 S C FUS. The 324 SC was first introduced in the early 2000s, as a marked improvement on the 315, and additionally features a travel-time module for the 5164A. The calibre beats at 28,800 A/h for improved accuracy, with a larger solid-gold rotor for increased power-generation - finished in classic Patek Philippe style, with circular Geneva stripes. The power-reserve is 45 hours.

The Set

This Patek Philippe 5164A-001 Aquanaut Time Time is accompanied by its Certificate of Origin, which confirms its sale in November 2011. It comes with its original black rubber strap (cut), as well as its inner and outer Patek Philippe boxes.

The caseback of the watch features a thoughtful engraving in Dutch, executed in a symmetrical and refined style. It features a date (25-8-2012), personalised initials matching the stamped paperwork, and the phrase "Voor alle tijd", which loosely translates to "for all times" - a charming and contemplative addition to this traveller's watch.

Closer look

This Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164A-001 comes with its original Patek Philippe boxes and stamped Certificate of Origin, confirming its sale in November 2011. The movement was recently serviced by Patek Philippe, within the past two years. 

The watch is in good condition, albeit showing a small ding at seven and eight o'clock on the outer side of the bezel, as well as a small mark at one o'clock. There are slight surface marks across the case, consistent with general wear. The case is unpolished from new. The caseback features the personalised engraving "Voor alle tijd", along with the date "25-8" and the initials of the original owner, as evidenced by the Certificate of Origin. The engraving itself was applied by Patek Philippe.

The watch comes with a two-year mechanical warranty from A Collected Man, as well as a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.