Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar | Yellow Gold

An early example of the Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar*, with an intriguing retrograde date complication. The watch bears several hallmarks of early Parmigiani watches from this period, from the stepped and knurled bezel to the choice of colour combination. It is powered by the PF 130.2, a movement based on a Lemania 8813 ébauche.

This Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is part of the Toric collection, which was inspired by the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and features a range of classic complications, alongside more inventive ones. The name is derived from the geometric shape of a torus, evident in its pieces, which have stepped and fluted bezels – a detail inspired by classical Greek and Roman Doric columns as well as the spiral of the Golden Ratio. 
 
This is an early example of the Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, as evidenced by the placement of the day and date apertures, which are on the chapter ring, on either side of the retrograde dates, as well as the double-stepped rather than single-stepped bezel. The signature javelin-style hands in this early example are in yellow gold.
 
As part of the neo-vintage movement, this retrograde date complication sits in an interesting position, leaning towards a more classical presentation while also presenting the information in a much cleaner and clearer format compared to some of the other watches featuring the same complication. One such example is the Patek Philippe ref. 5050, released in the early 90s, with the retrograde date complication fitted between the indices and day/date apertures, or the Roger Dubuis Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar from the same era, which comes at the complication from quite a different angle. Additionally, the size of this piece is in keeping with the growing trends of the period, which leaned towards larger watches, though it retains excellent wearability as a consequence of the slim, downturned lugs.
 
This example features the 40mm round case in a warm shade of 18k gold. The stepped case, marked by its knurled, coin-edge decoration, is crisp. The polished aspects contrast with the knurled details, making for a visually sumptuous experience. The gold crown, with its knurled detailing, is marginally recessed into the case and topped with a sapphire cabochon. 
 
Overall, the colour combination on this example is especially thoughtful, with the case blending smoothly into the yellow gold of the minutes and date chapter ring, and the deep grey of the main dial providing an excellent contrast overall, with a subtle guilloche pattern for added texture and depth. A leap year counter sits just above a yellow gold cartouche bearing "Parmigiani Fleurier", and the complication itself is brushed, providing excellent contrast with the polished case and with black-printed indications for increased legibility. There is also a remarkable level of symmetry throughout, with the 180-degree curve of the retrograde date mirrored in the seconds' counter above the moonphase.
 
The rim around the sapphire caseback also has a knurled detail, which, in addition to its function, serves to tie the whole aesthetic of the case together. Visible through the sapphire is the self-winding calibre PF130.2, based on a Lemania 8813 ébauche. In the early days of the manufacture, it relied on high-quality ébauches, modified, assembled, and finished in-house. This example is decorated to the highest standards, with a gold rotor with the brand mark and beautiful decoration. The bridges underneath wear subtle Côtes de Genève. 

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks on the very surface of the material and are consistent with relative wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement have been very well preserved, showing no signs of imperfections. The hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.