Toric Memory Time | Rose Gold

This is an example of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time*, the watch that established many of the visual hallmarks that have since come to typify the brand. It features the signature double-stepped case, with knurled details, in rose gold. The 18k gold dial, finished in a slate shade with barleycorn engine turning, discretely incorporates a second time zone display, by way of a jump hour. Powering it is the self-winding calibre PF132, with a solid gold rotor decorated beautifully. 

Introduced in 1996, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time wears the distinction of being the first ever watch created by the brand. The name, “Memory Time”, is evocative, bringing to mind Parmigiani’s roots as a restorer of ancient timepieces. 
 
The Toric collection that this watch established, was inspired by the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and features a range of classic complications, alongside more inventive ones. The name is derived from the geometric shape of a torus, evident in its pieces, which have stepped and fluted bezels – a detail inspired by classical Greek and Roman Doric columns as well as the spiral of the Golden Ratio. 
 
The Toric Memory Time establishes elemental design principles that can be seen across subsequent pieces in the Toric collection. It is a piece frequently seen on the wrist of Michel Parmigiani himself. This example features the 36mm round case in a warm shade of 18k pink gold. The stepped case, marked by its knurled, coin-edge decoration, is crisp. The polished aspects contrast with the knurled details, making for a visually sumptuous experience. The gold crown, with its knurled detailing, is marginally recessed into the case and topped with a sapphire cabochon. 
 
The dial is equally elegant, with a printed chapter of white minute plots running on the outside, contrasting against the slate colour of the dial. Further in lies an applied pink gold chapter with Roman hour markers. It is in this chapter where the watch discreetly integrates a second time display. The digital, jump hour tracks a secondary, or travel, time zone. The window is visually distinctive, with Breguet-style Arabic numerals printed on a white wheel. In the centre, the slate grey dial is decorated with engine turned guilloché in a barleycorn pattern. 
 
The signature javelin-style hands in this early example are in yellow gold. Both time zones are set with these hands. The second time zone is manipulated by positing the minute hand at the top of the hour, at 12 o’clock. Moving this hand back to 7 o’clock and then to 1 o’clock advances the jump hour by one. 
 
The rim around the sapphire caseback also has a knurled detail, which, in addition to its function, serves to tie the whole aesthetic of the case together. Visible through the sapphire is the self-winding calibre PF132, based on a Lemania 8813 ébauche. In the early days of the manufacture, it relied on high-quality ébauches, modified, assembled, and finished in-house. This example is decorated to the highest standards, with a gold rotor with the brand mark and beautiful decoration. The bridges underneath wear subtle Côtes de Genève. 
 
The 18mm lugs wear a calfskin leather strap with a solid rose gold pin buckle decorated with the knurling motif found on the case. The watch comes with its original outer and inner box, hang tag, warranty paperwork, and detailed specification sheets. It represents a rare and complete example of such an early and influential reference from one of the most important brands in the modern context. 

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Memory Time is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks, though only on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement have been well preserved. On the reverse of all four lugs, the hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.