Tourbillon | 3450 | Platinum & Rose Gold

One of the earliest pieces produced under the historic Breguet name, the design and movement of the ref. 3450 were developed by Daniel Roth, whilst he was Master Watchmaker at Breguet, working closely with the Lemania movement manufacturer. Years later, Roth would use the same ébauche in the tourbillons he produced under his own name, as an independent watchmaker. With a two-tone combination of platinum and rose gold, this piece is an intriguing example of Roth's early work.

The rebirth of Breguet began in 1970, when brothers Jacques and Pierre Chaumet took over in the hopes of reinvigorating the brand and renewing the connection between the Breguet name and high-end watchmaking. Shortly thereafter, the brothers closed the French factory and moved production to the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, the epicentre of Swiss watchmaking.
 
In order to restore the brand to its former glory, Jacques and Pierre would need a Master Watchmaker to help. They approached Daniel Roth, who’d demonstrated his talent over seven years working at Audemars Piguet, which he’d joined as the only watchmaker who didn’t come from Le Brassus, the brand’s historic home. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacturer, though only after going back to school to further study Breguet’s archives and techniques.
 
This reference 3450 is one of the earliest pieces to be created by the manufacturer, as evidenced by a slightly champagne-toned dial and no text featured on the guilloché pattern. Additionally, the case is a two-tone platinum and rose gold combination, an unusual pairing that highlights the coin-shaped edges of the watch, with two rose gold bands running parallel to each other, enclosing the coin edge. This styling may very well have influenced some of Roth's later work, such as his two-tone chronographs.
 
A silvered chapter ring with stamped Roman numerals marks the hours, and two secret Breguet signatures can be found between 11 and 12 o’clock, as well as 12 and 1 o’clock. The coin-edges that were instated by Daniel Roth as a design principle can also be seen around this piece. The skeletonised tourbillon cage is placed at the 6 o’clock marker and can be viewed from both the dial and movement side, with the design of the complication naturally drawing the eye to it, thanks to its intricacy and hand-engraved details. It features a blued subsidiary second hand, with three arms rotating across a 20-second indicator.
 
This Breguet Tourbillon reference 3450 is powered by the manual-winding calibre 558. The movement was initially produced by Lemania, working closely with Bodet and Roth from Breguet. Nouvelle Lemania was eventually acquired by Breguet in 1992, which in turn was absorbed into the Swatch Group in 1999.
 
The watch has just been serviced by Breguet, and is accompanied by its original papers, indicating the watch's sale in 1993.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Breguet Tourbillon will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Breguet Tourbillon 3450 is in excellent overall condition. Light superficial marks are found on the case and lugs and are consistent with minimal wear over time. The guilloché dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks located at 6 o'clock in the coin edge midcase are extremely crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.