Zeitwerk | 140.025 | Platinum

This A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk*, with a 41.9mm platinum case, is one of just 200 examples made in this precious metal. Paired with it is a suitably understated, monochrome execution of the innovative digital display in a pearlescent finish. It is powered by a manually wound calibre with an innovative constant force mechanism. The example comes complete with its box and paperwork, including documentation from a full service by the brand in 2022.

Introduced in 2009, the Zeitwerk was the first mechanical wristwatch to display the time from left to right, in a digital layout. It won the top prize, the Aiguille d’Or, at the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This was because, in addition to its innovative display, the tremendous torque required to help the hour and minute discs "jump" into place required a re-engineered barrel and innovative constant force mechanism as an intermediary. The remontoire engages every one minute, releasing a constant quantum of energy to the balance, ensuring even amplitude. Despite the energy intensive jump hour display, the mainspring manages 36 hours of autonomy.

The calibre, manually wound by the crown at 1 o’clock, features beautiful bridges crafted from German silver, as is customary for the brand. These bridges are finished in fine German striping, while the bridges of the remontoire device, crafted from stainless steel wear beautiful, bevelled edges and black polishing. The balance and escape bridges are adorned with free hand engraving in a floral pattern. The top of the escape bridge has a stainless-steel tip finished in black polishing.

The three-part case, measuring just under 42mm, has polished bezel and caseback rim sandwiching a satinated midcase. The lugs, stepped from the case, are straight and polished. The crown is deeply knurled and almost onion-like in its form. The caseback rim is brushed and engraved with details such as the brand mark, limited series number, country of origin, serial number as well as precious metal hallmarks.

On the dial side, the face is dominated by the large, hand-finished "bridge" that frames the television-shaped apertures at 9 and 3o’clock, displaying the hours and minutes respectively. The bridge, that also encompasses the subsidiary seconds register, and is affixed by a black polished screw, has a jewel made of the mineral corundum. The bridge wears a subtle circular graining pattern that gives it a fine, brushed appearance. This plays well with the circular texture of the seconds register, as well as the pearlescent shade of the rest of the dial. The print, whether it is the brand mark or the scales of the power reserve indicator or seconds register, are evenly black, reinforcing the monochrome aesthetic.

The display – influenced by one found inside the Semper Opera House in Dresden, which Ferdinand Adolph Lange helped to develop under the leadership of Christian Friedrich Gutkaes – is immensely readable, given the bold, oversized numerals.

The watch, which comes on a 20mm black, alligator style leather strap and platinum signed pin buckle, has all its requisite box and paperwork. It was also serviced by the brand in the latter half of 2022, with paperwork attesting to this. It represents a seldom seen iteration of the earliest Zeitwerk aesthetic and as such is particularly collectible.

Closer look

Condition

This A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 140.025 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show extremely light superficial marks that are visible under magnification. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any imperfections. The hallmarks and engravings on the caseback and clasp are crisp and well defined.

The watch received a full mechanical service and case intervention with A. Lange & Söhne in 2022.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.