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World Time 5131J | Yellow Gold

World Time 5131J | Yellow Gold

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The Patek Philippe reference 5131J was introduced in 2006, as the latest chapter in a legacy of world time wristwatches (namely the references 1415 HU and 2523). The ref. 5131J features a  Cottier-inspired, world-time mechanism and hand-made cloisonné enamel dial; the latter, depicting Europe, Africa, Asia, and Oceania.

Following its predecessor (the ref. 5130), the 5131J presents a number of distinguishable differences; most notably, the use of closionné enamel for the dial. Twenty-four cities are also displayed on the outer edge of the dial, with ‘Patek Philippe’ and ‘Genève’ signatures engraved on the bezel. The 5131 World Time is limited by production, with only a small number of closionné dials made each year - requiring intricate, specialist skill. The result, is an original display of craftsmanship, finely outlined in yellow gold.

The 5131J-014 (seen in this example) followed the reference 5131J-001, and was produced for less than two years before the reference was eventually discontinued, making them relatively rare. In the design, three of the cities were changed (Caracas to La Paz, Moscow to Riyadh but Moscow re-appearing, in place of Dubai), and it’s believed the colours of the enamel also became more vibrant, over the 5131J-001.

The 5131’s world-time mechanism harks back to the 1930s, when talented Geneva watchmaker, Louis Cottier, devised an ingenious, ultra-thin mechanism, which simultaneously displayed the correct hours across the world's time zones (through a rotating 24-hour ring) and local time. The concentric, 24-hour chapter-ring is divided into nocturnal and diurnal hours. In the design, the local time zone is set at the 12 o'clock position, with the hour and minute hand set at local time. The correct time (hours and minutes) is then displayed for every time zone in the world simultaneously (with clear local-time indication) on a single dial. In 1959, Patek Philippe obtained a patent for Cottier's device - introducing the calibre 240 HU, in 1999.

Powered by the above-mentioned, ultra-thin calibre 240 HU (‘Heure Universelle’), the self-winding movement features a 22K gold micro-rotor, allowing for a height less than 3.9mm; despite the world-time mechanism, placed dial-side on top of the movement. The calibre 240 HU features a Spiromax balance spring (made of silicon-based Silinvar), working in conjunction with a Gyromax balance-wheel. The movement is beautifully finished, with fine Geneva stripes, perlage and anglage, as well as exquisite chamfering on all angles.

This Patek Philippe ref. 5131J-014 is accompanied by its original inner and outer boxes, literature, leather folder and stamped Certificate of Origin. The watch comes with its original matte-brown, alligator strap and corresponding yellow gold deployant buckle. It's fitted to one of our Marrakesh tan saffiano straps.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
Closer look
Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: World Time Ref. 5131J-014
Movement: mechanical automatic - Calibre 240 HU
Functions: world time, hours, minutes
Features: display back, closionné enamel dial
Case: 39.5 mm yellow gold
Crystal: sapphire front and back
Bracelet: dark brown Patek Philippe alligator strap, Marrakesh saffiano strap, yellow gold deployant buckle
Year: 2013
Box & papers: original box, literature and leather folder, Certificate of Origin
This yellow gold, Patek Philippe 5131J-014 World Time watch is in very good condition and has perfect mechanical functionality. The case is unpolished and has light superficial marks throughout (consistent with occasional wear). The top left and right lugs have three small imperfections (visible in creative photography). The watch comes as a full-set, with box and stamped Certificate of Origin. It’s guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.
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